 Here
are the stock TLT-1 axles built to specs. The only
changes are that the differentials have been locked
using JB Weld and a bearing kit was used to replace the
stock bushings. |
 Here
is a close-up of the aftermarket output connector from
Traxxas. The plastic units tend to bend and split
under stress so we went with the steel versions from the
start to prevent that from happening. |
 Here
is the Traxxas Stampede transmission mounted to the
aftermarket chassis. The chassis is available from
RC
Rock Gear. Contact them if you wish to inquire
about the chassis and pricing. |
 Here
you can chassis with the links in place. I used
Traxxas Revo links for the 4-link suspension setup. |
 The
other side of the chassis showing how the tranny case sits
just outside of the frame. |
 HPI
Split 5 rims in black are used and as you can see, the
inside bead has been cut off to narrow the rim slightly as
well as provide better clearance. |
 The
TLT axles are now mated to the suspension links. The
upper links will be mated once the custom steering servo
plates are cut. |
 The
servo plates have been cut and are ready to be
mounted. The rear plate will not have a servo mounted
to it therefore it does not have the mounting holes drilled
into it. |
 The
servo plates are mounted and the upper links are
attached. As you can see, the upper links have been
changed from Revo links to Associated T4 turnbuckles.
Even though the steel ones probably would have worked I went
with the titanium ones for added strength and for the bling
factor. |
 Even
though the servo plates are stronger the stock plastic
units, I was afraid of the flexing that I was seeing.
By drilling small holes into the diff cases, I was able to
thread in 2mm screws and secure then with locknuts.
Not only did this solve the flexing issues, but also made
the whole unit stronger. |
 Here
are some RC10L mounts that have been modified for use to
hold the plates that will hold the electronics. |
 The
truck is coming along nicely. |
 The
obligatory flex shots. The truck has about 70° of
articulation before it lifts the rear tire. That
should change to about 80° after the weight of the
electronics is added. |
 The
fiberglass plates are prepped for cutting. These are
the plates that the speed control, receiver and battery pack
will be attached to. You can see that I've decided on
using a GP 1100 battery pack. |
 Test
fitting of the speed control plate. Thankfully it all
lined up perfectly on the first try. |
 The
speed control is placed on top to make sure everything fits
just right. Now that the fit is tested we can move
onto the battery deck. |
 Here
the battery plate is being prepped for drilling. At
the same time the receiver plate is also being
prepped. Both are done at the same time since their
relatively the same size and both have the same drill
pattern. |
 All
three plates are drilled, sanded and ready for
installation. You can see the four slots that are
drilled into the battery plate that will allow the battery
pack to be held in with zip-ties. |
 The
plates are installed in the chassis. The upper braces
that span from the left to the right side will be taken off
to provide the vertical clearance needed for the batter and
receiver to fit properly on the plates. The plates
themselves will act as the horizontal stiffeners. |
 The
electronics are now being installed into the chassis.
The battery pack is zip-tied to the plate and the ESC is
attached to the side plate using Dean's MXT Tape which is a
very strong and reliable servo tape. |
 A
Tobee Craft 16mm wide tread kit was purchased from Ebay and
installed. As you can see, it pushes the wheel out
quite a bit and allows the axles full range of motion
without causing the tires to rub on any parts.
Previously the tires rubbed on the shocks near the end of
the articulation point. |
 An
antenna wire holder was needed so I cut one out of a scrap
piece of lexan from the body that was painted for RC
Crawler. I also used it as a place to put stickers of
the manufacturers that I have used. |
 The
antenna mount is now installed and the wire has been run
through it. |
  The
electronics have been installed and all of the wires have
been neatly and safely tied down. All that's left is
to paint a body and charge the battery. |
 Here
is the chassis from the other side. |
 Body
on and showing off the trucks flexing. The axles can
swing a total of about 70 degree's. |
 After
a brief test it was painfully obvious that the truck needed
more weight. Not only would this help the tires to
grip the surface, but it would also slightly lower the
center of gravity. Here you can see the stick on
weights attached to the inside of
Traxxas Stampede rims. |
 The
inner foams needed to be trimmed to provide clearance for
the weights as well as to let the tire deform enough to mold
themselves around the terrain that it would crawling over
but at the same time provide enough support to maintain
proper sidewall support. |
 After
trimming four inner foams this is the mess that I was left
with. |
 It
was decided after that first test that I would want to lower
the center of gravity even more and the
easiest way to do that was to lower the battery. In
order to that a new batter mount was needed. Here you
can see the top and bottom straps that were cut out of
fiberglass to hold the battery. It features beveled
edges to hold the battery as tightly as possible.
Another nice feature is that it allows me to take the
battery out easily without having to repeatedly cut off
zip-ties. |
 Here
is the bottom of the battery strap mounted. You can
see the 3mm rod that is used here. It will be cut to
size and will be used to secure the top strap that will
sandwich the battery in place. |
 Here
you can that the battery is clamped down and held in
place. It is held in quite tight and despite my best
efforts, does not budge. |
 Here
is a close-up of the battery strap. The underside is
beveled so it fits nice and snug between the battery cells. |
 The
truck
is basically finished at this point which means one thing:
it's time for a body. Here is a close-up of the front
end which features the sites logo. |
 The
body is masked and is now ready for paint. At this
point, I'm still not sure what exactly is going to go on the
lower portions that are masked. |
 Guess
this means I figured out the paint. My only rule for
this body: use the sites colors of silver, black and
red. I used Pactra's Outlaw Black, Indy Silver, and
Racing Red. |
 The
sites logo came out quite nicely and is displayed right up
front on the body. |
 Here
is a close-up shot of the detail on the side of the body. |
|
Here is the body all painted and mounted. All it
requires is some stickers and then its off to the
rocks. Hope you enjoyed this build!
See in action pictures of the finished crawler HERE.
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